The laser is rated at 5000hrs. For the average craftsman using their shop 8 hours a week that would equal 12 years.
The adhesive is a solid acrylic, which is considered permanent after 72hrs. It will bond to almost all hard clean surfaces. It should not be used with self oiling plastics such as polypropylene.
The cover of the laser is glass and should be cleaned with standard glass cleaner as necessary. A compressor should not be used to blow off dust, as that could blow dust into the unit.
The laser is a class IIIA device transmitting less than 5mw. This is considered to be safe for normal use.
No. The laser cannot be adjusted but you can still adjust its position for accurate use. We suggest that you use a Model 125. When you are using a 1/8 kerf blade you would use the Laserkerf normally. When you change to a thin kerf blade adjust the beam to align with the left side of the blade. Align your cut mark on the left side normally. On the right side instead of placing your cut mark on the outside edge of the laser place the mark just inside the laser. The width of the mark is approximately .025", which is the difference in the two blades.
The laser is not strong enough to compete with the brightness and spectrum of light produced by the sun, even on a cloudy day.
The short answer is yes.
The adhesive is very good but you could pry it off or cut through the adhesive. You would then need a new adhesive strip. The adhesive is not just double back tape, it holds much stronger. We will send you another strip upon request.
I sent you a page from Dewalt about cutting crown molding. The second section discusses cutting the material flat on the saw table. There are a lot of problems cutting crown molding using the backstop to hold the molding at the same angle as the wall and ceiling angle. Usually the angle in the house is not 90 degrees. If you are cutting 5.5" molding and the angle is off 3 degrees there will be a 3/8 split in the bottom of the molding. The compound miter saw was designed to lay the material flat, be clamped in place is desired, and then the table and blade rotated to the necessary angles for a proper miter. Holding the material at 45 degrees when making the cut is less accurate and most saws do not have a clamp to hold the wood to keep it from slipping. I hope this is helpful.
Thank you for your comments. In the original question the customer wanted the laser to mark the front of the molding, which it will not. In almost all cases the laser will mark the exact cutting position needed in the bottoms up approach, which is the edge of the molding. I have used this method many times and it is typically accurate enough. In many older homes it is not accurate enough. The answer on the site is about the greatest degree of accuracy because as stated 90 degree corners are not in abundance.
Dewalt is also the only saw, as far as I know, that has stops, at extra cost of course, made to cut molding against the back stop. I to have typically set my own track to hold the material in position when cutting bottoms up. If a track is not used, and some novices may think it is not necessary, the accuracy will be hit or miss at best. The laser will mark the bottom edge of the molding using the bottoms up, originally called the "up side down and backwards method", with great accuracy. I appreciate your comments and time to discuss the subject.
If it affects the laser beam remove the black rubber band and then blow through the slot with low pressure air. The dust will blow out the bottom. Replace the band and everything should be fine.
There is no adjustment for the crispness of the beam. If you have a high level of light it will start to break up the beam.